Carnival Sampa style: blocos, booze and even bebezinhas

A friend recently asked if I was looking forward to carnival in Brazil, famous for staging probably the world’s most awesome spectacle. I didn’t really know, was the answer. Carnival in Rio de Janeiro is a pretty legendary affair, but I had no idea what it would be like in São Paulo.

Although Rio is considered the carnival, São Paulo has caught up to attract millions of revellers. It wasn’t long after we arrived in Sampa at the end of July 2017 that we could hear the samba school near us in Vila Madalena practising its rhythmic beats pretty much every Sunday afternoon, from about 6pm to around 10.30pm. Of course, this ramped this up to twice a week as we got closer to carnival.

Bloco for kids in Sampa

I’m no samba expert and I’m sure they were very good, but it was a bit racket (I know, a very British thing to say). More so, it’s a bit tricky with a one-year-old and getting them to go to sleep (and stay asleep). I was intrigued by what lay in store, but also a bit anxious we wouldn't get any kip for five nights in a row (carnival + one-year-old = crying into my pillow).

I had always imagined that carnival was out on the streets. Actually the main parade is in the sambadrome  (yes there’s even a thing called a sambadrome), of which the one in Sampa was built by architect Oscar Niemeyer. Starting at 10pm and finishing at 7am, it's not for the faint hearted.

Nonetheless, we wouldn’t be missing out. In the past few years, São Paulo has experienced a burst of blocos, street parties traditionally associated with carnival in the northeast of Brazil and Rio.

Bloqinho infantil

Our first carnival experience was going to a bloco infantil the weekend before carnival. We, including our daughter, were very underdressed as we passed thousands of children and adults glammed up in costumes ranging from fairies and princesses to superheroes.

We arrived at 11am and the street was absolutely packed. We made the mistake of taking a pushchair, which meant we weren’t going to get far. It took a while to get the sound system going, but music or no music, the atmosphere was electric. There was confetti and foam everywhere. We didn’t buy any but lots of lovely people gave us handfuls of theirs. The children were so happy and the adults too, several of them merry after a few cans of beer. 

Closer to home 

Since the start of carnival, blocos have overtaken our road. They start anywhere from around midday until a long time after I’ve gone to bed. Punters line the street selling beer, drinks and whatever other provisions while the police also have quite a visible presence.

It was a bit hairy at times, with the police having to use flares on one occasion to disperse the crowds.

The average age looks to be about 25 (I’m well past it), but good for people watching and seeing people having fun. It was pretty hellish trying to get back from the supermarket with my daughter and her buggy, but everyone had been very accommodating and created a path for us. I was a bit disappointed, however, that I didn’t see any floats or more lavish outfits. 

Never mind, I’m looking forward to more bloco and carnival action this time next year. Perhaps, we might even make it to the sambadrome.